When I bought the motorcycle, it clearly had not been cleaned for years.
Engine cut out constantly in the wet.
Remedy was to spray WD40 all over the coil and HT lead. End of problem.
When this occurred for the first time, due to inexperience at the age of seventeen, I took the bike back to the dealer where I bought it. I later learned, I was charged for nothing. Don`t let them rip you off!
Gearbox often use to jump out of gear. The fault was either a defective selector claw or stopper lever.
Gearbox used to leak oil via the selector shaft. Renewed the oil seal to no success. Suspect a worn shaft. The shaft was never replaced.
Exhaust started blowing. Renewed the seal at the down pipe to muffler connection. Cost nothing.
Oil change revealed petrol contamination of the oil. This was due to blown "O" ring on the disc valve induction. This affected the top end speed, thus reducing it to 55mph.
Renewed the pads at 17000 miles. Cost £10.
Renewed the rear tyre at 18000 miles. Cost £30 and fitted by an associate free of charge.
Started running erratically. A service revealed a pilot circuit in the carb was blocked, clogged exhaust and bad ignition timing. Remedy was to overhaul and clean the carb, adjust the ignition points, and decoke the muffler. The machine was noticeably faster and easily pulled wheelies. Sounded throaty.
Loss of compression at 21000 miles due to a broken top piston ring. At this stage, I sold the bike to a person of interest, who later informed me that a new piston kit was all that was needed and no rebore.
Robust disc valve two-stroke engine.
The engine is economical and is reliable when in good condition.
My one, although worn, started with the first kick.
The exhaust note is distinctive at low RPM and is music to my ears (a deep burble). After about 6000 RPM, the machine really takes off and sounds loud.
The build quality is excellent and the finish is pleasing.
The engine covers are polished aluminium and look impressive.
The 13.5 litre fuel tank gives good range.
The speedo and tachometer reveals important information at a glance.
The suspension is well damped to give a smooth ride.
The models fitted with six volt electrics would benefit with a twelve volt system.
The point system would be better replaced with CDI ignition, in order to reduce maintenance further more.
At the age of seventeen, this bike was pure freedom and joy. However, I did long for a bigger and better machine (the stupidity of youth).
In hindsight, I wish I had kept this motorcycle. It was fun to ride and looked the part, although not as flash as many sports 125s.
I think that what we could learn from this review, is that when you bought the KH125, it had been neglected and needed a thorough clean and overhaul.
I've just bought a 1990 KH125 that has been standing in a friend's garage for seven years, it won't go anywhere near the tarmac until I've checked the crank case seals, replaced all of the fuel and brake lines, changed brake pads, brake oil, probably fork oil and seals etc...
This really is common sense, make a point of checking seals etc on any used bike you buy and I would replace brake lines, pads and tyres as a matter of course. If you wait for things to go wrong before you think to check them, then you're going to spend more time in the garage than on the road riding.
My bike has to be reliable before I take it to Oxford (where I am at university) as my workshop facilities are in Birmingham, so anything more serious than adjusting the chain or an oil change is going to be a problem whilst I'm here.
I have just bought a KH125 two stroke, which did work, but I was learning how to ride and forgot to let the kick-start back. Now the kick-start and piston seizes up, but if I take the right hand side case off, the piston and kick-start frees up. Any idea how to fix this?
With reference to your kick start problem. Try looking at the ratchet block and test if this is locking up when the right hand cover is screwed down.
I have a Kawasaki KH125 1992 model, and for some reason it has next to no power unless I choke the engine. Any idea what it could be?
Thanks, Jonny.
I should simply remove cover and just bungee cord it back on. It will run sweet as a nut after this.
If you are experiencing very little power, unless you use the choke, then you have a carburettor problem, ie too lean a mixture. First check if sufficient petrol is getting to the carb - no obstructions in hose, fuel tap passing fuel etc.
Secondly, check the carb itself - dismantle it and clean all jets and passages. Only use carb cleaner in aerosol form. Word of warning, NEVER attempt to clean the jets with any type of wire, as this will enlarge the soft brass alloy, thus causing many further problems. Lastly, check for any air leaks, such as loose air intake duct, leaking RH engine cover gasket etc and also check the air filter.
I would remove the CARB and soak it overnight in a solution of brake fluid. A lot cheaper than gasoline and the acids will clean the jet superbly.
I have a Kawasaki kh125 and have a bit of a problem.
The indicators seem to stop blinking whenever the brake is pulled (front or back). I have checked the alternator and battery, and think it could be a wiring fault.
Does anybody what this could be?
Thanks, Jonny.
With regards to your problem with your turn signals, consider the following:
Check the alternator output voltage.
Check battery charge and electrolyte level.
Check all connections (battery, alternator, indicators etc), especially the earths for continuity and corrosion.
Check indicator relay.
Make sure nothing has been incorrectly connected.
Check the bulbs are correct wattage and comply with manufacturers recommendations.
It sounds to me that is an earthing problem, check all your wiring to body earth terminals, guarantee you will fix for free, or else you may have a corroded light bulb holder. I hope this helps.
I recently bought a 1991 KH125. It's a joy. Top tip so far, buy a new spark plug and watch it go...!
Got a KH125K 99 just recently, have had few little problems, but main one at the moment is power, ie what voltage is this bike supposed to be?
When I got it, the battery was dead and wouldn't take a charge, so the guy in the bike shop swapped it out, it was a 6 volt in it, but he said that was wrong?? So he stuck a 12v in, can any of you guys or girls confirm this?
Also the horn seems to be gone as well, all I get is a little beep, very little, any ideas?
80K broken speedo and still trucking
Kroninberg,
Dublin, Ireland.
My KH has a 6volt battery - It seemed dead when I bought the machine a few weeks ago... according to the Haynes manual I have though, the 6V should be fine. I have been taking the bike on a few runs lately and the battery now seems fully charged and fine.
Phil.
OK figured out it was 6 Volt, Got A KH100 manual :)
This my first motorbike, any tips for taking care? And how high should you rev this sucka??
I've been enjoying running it at around 6000 revs - an earlier contributor to this survey mentioned the note changing at about 6000rpm - I would agree. Mine is running very sweetly between 6 and 7000rpm on a good road surface - are there any around fair Dublin city?
As for care, check the plug, oil levels and brake fluid. Its a 2-stroke - what else can go wrong...?
Phil