19th May 2010, 18:06
I have a 76' 175 with a seized engine... I am going to try the tranny fluid trick, but I think the fluids have been sitting for a while in the bike. Anyone know the best way to drain the fluid?
8th Jun 2010, 20:45
I just picked up a 73, blue F7 for $200, not sure why, I really wanted a DT250 in orange. I'm a sucker for old bikes that are complete, the only thing it is missing is the original front fender, but it has a Preston petty fender, which is cool. So far I got it to start and run for a few seconds with the choke on. I did a quick cleaning of the carburetor, which looked pretty good, not what I'm used from a bike that was last on the road in 88. It looked like the PO (may he rest in peace) drained the carb. So I'll pull it again and give it a good cleaning.
22nd Aug 2010, 13:10
I am working on a friends 73 F7. He had it as a teen and is going to hand in down to his son 12 years old. Any thoughts on fork dust seals? They are disc from K, and 2 vintage parts houses said they had them, but no luck. Wondered if Yamaha or Suzuki similar era use this dust seal. I will try the air filter tip, since all is left is the cage. Any other thoughts on other K models that parts will interchange with?
4th Jan 2011, 13:22
Guys, I have had and still have F7 and ke's. If your bike won't run at full throttle, or seems sluggish, the o-ring is bad in the float bowl. This o-ring seals the main jet passage to the bottom of carb. Your main jet is in the float bowl, looks like drain plug from outside. If there is no resistance when putting bowl up to bottom of carb, the o-ring is shot. Also these bike don't have points, it's a CDI type ignition. I hope I am clear on location of the o-ring. Remember... ride'em, don't hide'em!
9th Jun 2011, 09:34
Thanks for the tip about the o-ring. My 75 F7 will not run at full throttle, and will only run 45-50 mph, and it seems to bog down going up hills.
9th May 2012, 19:50
The problem is likely a small piece of sand in the jet, or the mid range fuel adjustment is way too low. Take the C clip off the pin and change it.
18th May 2012, 10:40
BIG thanks for the o-ring tip! It made all the difference. I had put one on from another carb, and it was a little smaller. I would have never checked this.
Now to get the clutch to stop slipping.
18th Mar 2013, 10:11
Any chance you would have the thickness specs for the clutch plates and springs? I'm working on a friend's bike, and really don't want to buy a manual, just to see if they are out of spec. His is a 1975 F7.
2nd Jul 2013, 20:34
Just bought a 72 F7 that looks like new, and was told the engine was rebuilt with only 38 miles on it. And I believe it; the thing started right up and ran excellent for the little that I've ridden it. I haven't had the chance to really look it over see if it needs brakes or anything. Where is the best place to buy parts if needed? Ebay?
2nd Jul 2015, 02:54
Hello, I got a seized F7 175 1972. I just got everything working today. The petcock was slightly leaky, but nonetheless I kicked it over and it started.
The problem is the way it started, the bike was idling at 7000 RPM and I could not get the RPM down. I also could not get it to shut off, the kill switch would not work, so I had to pull the boot off of the spark plug.
Do you have any idea how I could get it to idle at a normal RPM, or could you tell me why it is idling so high?
7th Jan 2016, 16:11
I have a 72 F7 that was sitting in a garage for 25 years. It has under 1500 miles, but it won't free rev past 7k and you have to roll onto the throttle. When driving, it has no power past 3500 and begins to slow down once it reaches that. Any ideas? We are running it without the carb cover while we tune it.
20th Mar 2016, 16:28
If you run it without the air cleaner, it will run lean (too much air). Try putting the filter back on. The carb is jetted from the factory with the filter in place.
24th May 2016, 07:22
I bought a 72 Kawasaki 175 and cleaned the carb and got it running, but the clutch won't disengage. I tried to adjust it but nothing. What could be wrong or what can I do?
28th Nov 2017, 18:38
The clutch disengages from the opposite side where the chain is. The rod used to push the clutch is very long and can often bend and get stuck in its bore. Steel quality wasn't the best in the 70s; if it is bent you might be better off making a new one from good quality round stock rather than using NOS parts that have been sitting for 40+ years.
19th May 2018, 00:18
Make sure the rotary valve is timed at the right time, so when the piston cranks, it pulls gas in and and doesn't push it in.