I bought a 2002 Yamaha V-Star with 4000 miles on it. It is completely stock. I love the bike with one exception. Sometimes it runs great at any speed, and other times it seems to have have partial power on one cylinder. It is not as bad as a dead miss, so I don't think it is ignition. It never happens at lower speed, only above 55 mph. I can be cruising and open the throttle a little, and it really vibrates and has lack of power. I have checked the entire ignition system, the valve adjustment is good and compression is 170 on both cylinders. I rebuilt the carbs very carefully, and put in new plugs. My guess is the slide in one of the carb is not opening like it should, and causing one cylinder to pull harder. Has anyone experienced this and found the cause?
I have a 2007 V-Star 650. AMAZING bike. No problems whatsoever. I plan on keeping the bike until I die. Would not trade it for anything.
First of all, if you are storing your bike through the winter, you don't drain the gas and THEN put stabilizer in it. That's the whole reason your bike won't start in the spring. If you are going to bash on a brand of bike, at least get your facts straight.
You get a FULL gas tank AND carbs, THEN you put stabilizer in your tank. Therefore preventing gumming up of carburetor parts and a successful start in the spring.
Thank you sincerely.
Anti-lemon/Upset Michigan comment.
The 650's are jetted lean from the factory for emissions. That is the root cause when using fuel with ethanol additive. The solution is to rejet the carbs; there is an earlier post here that is spot on... 110 main jets and a #4 washer under each needle.
That will solve the problems for you.
In response to anti lemon/upset in Michigan comment. My husband has been shutting down motorcycles since he was a kid. We have put stable in my bike, and run it through the carbs, and it still gums up. We shut off the gas and run the carbs out, so there is no gas left in the carbs, but still did not work. I had to have my bike back in the shop in the Spring of 2010 for the same thing. Now we have tried something different, so we will see if that works. We used Sea-foam this fall along with stable (as we were told by another dealer to try) to see if that works. With all the problems I am having with this bike, I do not have much confidence in it.
Still Up Set In Michigan.
To the person who has the bike that has gas pouring out of the right side. This is a result of your needle valves gumming up. The bike normally starts right up and even idles, however you probably don't want to ride around with your carb's gas overflow flooding out gas!! This is very common when people let this model sit too long without starting. Everyone's gas/carb issues can be avoided by simply running your bike once every two weeks. The deal with these particular needle valves is they were changed from stainless steel to brass.
LOL, I am 6.5 and find it a bit small on the leg room. Makes a figure 8 hard unless I swing my knee all the way out, the grip and my lower hand wrist area hits me in the knee, and bang no more smooth turning.
Anyways, it is a great bike, not as much power on the open road or take offs as the Magna750, but then that's a cruiser of different class 4 in 4 V4 90 degree twin engine.
I just bought my wife this 650 Silverado, and she loves it, but I agree that the nature of these bikes is that they require a longer warm up period, and I agree with 30 seconds in full choke and 2 minutes in half way, and 1 minute without any, and then she is ready to go, but has hesitation for about 10 miles when you first open the throttle.
This is nature of these bikes... can anything be done? I am sure, but it will cost BUX... I also own a Royal Star Venture (Big Mother) and an older Suzuki GS1000G, and a 750 Magna. And I find that the Yamaha's generally require lengthier warm up time. I learned to accept the fact.
Ride safe people, wear your proper gear and keep your head screwed on tight. Remember, if a guy gives you the finger, then he will most definitely not hit you because he has seen you and that is good. Smile and say thanks for noticing me.
Stay alive, and keep the rubber side down.
You might want to check the jets. Depending on where you lived before, the weather has a impact on how the bike runs.
You need to shim the final drive properly where it bolts to the rear swing arm, making sure the gap between the final drive and the wheel hub is perfectly the same all the way around the wheel.
Also your mechanic may have failed to heavily grease the splines in the casing. This is a common complaint. It's worth your while taking the final drive off and packing it with grease yourself. You'll never have this problem again.
Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty and do some work on your bike yourself. It's not as daunting as it may seem at first.
When leaving it sitting for an extended period of time, turn the petcock off and leave the bike running until the carbs are completely drained of fuel.
Brian, when you hear that pump running when the ignition is switched on, it means that the pump is empty and it's sucking fuel into it. If the pump is still running and doesn't stop, then there is no fuel getting to the pump. This is a simple fix. First check your petcock under the tank; make sure it's on. Someone could have turned it off on you as a prank. It happened to me once. Also check your fuel line is clear from the petcock down. In the petcock there is a mesh filter; clean it and try again. Hope that helps you some.
If you use about 1/8 (2oz.) of a 16oz. bottle of SeaFoam in the gas (if it's a full tank), it's my understanding it will "stabilize" the gas for up to 2 years, as well as degunk the carbs and etc...
Run it through a bit just like you'd do with "Stabil" so it's in the lines, etc, before you shut it down for the winter, and it should be OK.
First off, don't run the carbs dry... run the SeaFoam (or Stabil) treated gas through (just like you were running the bike normally) until you're sure the carbs have been "treated" by the "new mixture" (2-3 minutes or so at least)... Then shut it down for the Winter. Come Spring, you should be OK.
I just recently purchased an 07 V Star Classic. What an awesome bike. It had sat for the last 2 years, so I pulled the carb, put new Mikuni 110 jets in, shimmed the needles back, put in some Seafoam and SCHPLADOW!!! Just got done driving her around for the first time. I already have my first five modifications planned. Beach Bars, more chrome, exhaust mods, can't wait.
I also have to run full choke and 6 turns in on the throttle adjustment, and hold the damn throttle for over 10 minutes until it will even idle when I let go. Then I have to chase the throttle adjustment back to a setting that is hard to find. Never had any problems like this with my old Honda. Was told the winter fuel treatment needs to be run out. Fresh fuel never works. Over 2000 miles now, and always the same...
I love the looks of this bike. But, I didn't buy it to look at. I have had my 2007 carbs reworked twice. Still chasing it. Did anyone find a solution yet? I also have to run ethanol.. I just had to put out $1400 to get my Sea-Doo reworked because of fuel lines decaying from ethanol. I hate to think the future holds better designs when this is going on, and nobody can solve it.
Yes, the problem is the gasoline, not the carburetor design. I have worked in the auto parts business for 15 years and can tell you, automobiles are the only engines that don't have a major problem. Lawn mowers, tractors, scooters, boats, motorcycles all have a problem with ethanol. Ethanol gums up quickly when it lays in small areas such as the jets in a small carb. It is highly recommended to only use ethanol free gas in these items. Ethanol free gas is not available everywhere. If you cannot use that, you should be using an ethanol treatment to prevent gumming.