20th Aug 2008, 00:06
Such a great bike! Great power, nice sounding engine.. Great bike for its year!
I have the 82' XJ650, however I just have one question..
It seems that the gear ratios are those that weren't designed for long road trips. Sitting at 60mph it's sitting at 5,000RPM. I was wondering if this was the normal ratios on the bike? I think maybe I went through a gas tank in just 2 days. But then I was thinking it could be set for the more acceleration aspect. So I just want to clarify that.
But besides that, it's a great bike. I LOVE it!
20th Aug 2008, 06:44
Engine Oil Question:
Hey fellow Maxim owners!
I recently bought my '82 650 Maxim as my first bike. I love it! I just have one, weird (and possibly stupid) question. The repair manual I have calls for 10w-30 SE engine oil. I am having a hard time finding it. My dealer has 10w-40. But not 30. Any advice???
20th Aug 2008, 21:43
You might want too remember that the speed limit in the states went back to 55mph back then. So running it at 45% of your total rpm isn't that bad. My 86 FZX 700 Fazor runs at about 5,000 rpm at 70mph. and its redline is 11,000. It's been too long since I had my '82 750 Maxum to remember its rpm at hiway speeds. And 50mpg is about the norm for your bike. Hope this helps.
22nd Aug 2008, 04:46
RPM answer is: In 5th gear you go approx. 12.5 mph for every 1000 rpm on the tach. So 60mph at 5000 is about norm. I and others have noticed a slight vibration between 60-65 mph but disappears below or above. Open this bike up and you can cruise at 80 all day long. (expect low 40's mpg) Went 9000 miles on cross country road-trip no sweat.
Also, Yamaha recommends their 20-40 oil as I remember. I run a 20-50 in the heat.
"Ride to Live" JohnB.
26th Aug 2008, 09:21
More fixes for a GREAT ol bike:
Had a hairline crack in one coil years ago that caused 2 spark plugs to misfire whenever it got wet. Found it with a magnifier (look good), filled it with superglue and covered it with non-conductive putty. Been holding for years.
Also watch out for short in wire harness going into headlight on sharp lip. Kept blowing fuses one day and noticed a spark in this area just after dark with one fuse left :) Just tape it to prevent rubbing thru.
Great bikes, just remember they're 27+ years old and stuff happens!
"Live to Ride" JohnB
27th Aug 2008, 19:22
Bought a Yamaha Maxim 650 1982 2 months ago and had the carbs cleaned and synchronized, and a new gas tank and swing arm. The mechanic put it all back together and now there is something funky with the wire harness, so I purchased a used one off eBay, but the motorcycle will run fine until you jiggle the wires under the seat, and then it starts missing. Would this be an easy fix or will the new harness be enough, plus what wire controls the headlight, mine doesn't work?
2nd Sep 2008, 06:00
In response to 27 Aug08: Electric gets hairy.
First get the book and go thru initial checks for connections/frays and components. Once running try pulling one plug wire at a time (use a dry glove) to determine if all or just a couple are missing, each coil controls
2. Pulling a bad wire won't cause any difference in missing. A good one will be noticed. Wish you luck, elec stuff is frustrating, go slow and don't assume.
As for your headlight wire, just look inside the headlight assembly for the answer.
"Ride to Live" JohnB
6th Sep 2008, 23:27
I researched the Yamaha 1100 classics from 05 - 08. On all but the 07 the gear ratios were the same. And most forums have pointed out, the need for higher range 5th gear in all but the 07. The others used a shorter range in each gear, leading to higher RPM in each gear. For example the 07 has a gear ratio in fifth gear of 0.967, while all others used a fifth gear ratio of 0.85, With these lower gear ratios you are wasting over 1,000 cc's. The rpms run higher in all the gears and you are constantly changing gears up. So at 60 mph you feel your engine running loud at high RPM and does not have the capacity to cruise smoothly in fifth gear. My suggestion is to give wider/higher ratios to 4th and fifth gears to correct the problem... or provide an overdrive fifth gear.
7th Sep 2008, 19:47
Lets not confuse the people with 1100 Classic two cylinder info. This is a XJ650 Maxim site, right?
11th Sep 2008, 10:27
I posted a comment about 2 weeks ago about my 650 Maxim having an electrical problem, so I purchased a new wire harness for it because the old one was butchered, and it is still doing the same thing, it turns over and idles well, but when you rev it up it pops like popcorn for a little bit, and then it will rev fine, and then it does some more backfiring.
The carbs have been cleaned and synced, and it has new carb boots and gaskets and new spark plugs and gas tank, everything has been checked.
I am at my wits end, the wire harness was a pain, I have been told to get a new tci box and that should fix the problem, would that be what's causing this, is this the next step to take?
What about the voltage rectifier, that shouldn't need changed should it?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Brad.
11th Sep 2008, 11:46
I bought an XJ650 Maxim 1983 model and can't seem to get any fire. I checked coils, they are fine, checked the stator with a new one, didn't help, I've checked all I can think of, any else have this problem and know the fix? It will be greatly appreciated.
Also the guy before me said it would run for ten minutes or so then die, and after it cooled it would run, but then do the same thing. Now it won't run at all. Thought it was the CDI; I changed that and it didn't help either. Any help?
11th Sep 2008, 17:04
Does anyone have this problem with their 650 on start up - I have to roll the bike or bounce it so it doesn't cut out, when you do this it goes right up to speed, if you don't it will die on you.
12th Sep 2008, 20:31
To 11 Sept 17:04. If it's on a cold engine, try checking the choke cable for proper routing/bind or stuck mechanisms on handlebar or carbs.
Just a guess. Wish you luck :)
13th Sep 2008, 12:02
Hi Brad, I was having the same problem with my XJ running rough and backfiring. Problem turned out to be a bad spark plug boot. Pulled off the boot and it fell totally apart. Replaced it and she is up and running just fine now. Hope this helps.
15th Sep 2008, 13:32
Oil change made easier. Next time you change oil filter, have an aftermarket 'hardened' bolt ready to install. Easy to find online because the OEM one is small headed, soft and prone to rounding. And don't try to reuse the large O-ring on filter housing, it will leak. Ha!
**Be sure you align housing tang between fin grooves on engine. I almost tried to tighten it off-center once after it rotated (fool).
Also try your local auto parts store for filter. They sometimes can order without shipping charges. Plus use a penetrating oil first on dry bolts/screws you may undo elsewhere. Be patient, let it work in overnight to save you pain of extracting broke or rounded ones. Then use an anti-seize lube when reinstalling em. All minor but good practice with ol bikes.
p.s. Good to see more traffic on this site. Keep sharing :)