5th Aug 2015, 03:57
I have the same problem, did you find out what to do? Please let me know if you got a fix. email@example.com
19th Jan 2016, 19:00
Johan here. I have a 1990 Venture Royal. I have no problems. I'm from Western Cape, South Africa.
2nd Mar 2016, 06:02
1989 Venture. Just went through this bike including the cooling system.
Problem: The temperature gauge runs just under the RED when cruising slow. Fan works, good radiator cap, new pump, etc. This bike is a recent purchase and I have no past operating experience with it. Do these bikes normally run in the upper section of the temp. gauge? Outside temperature was 50 degrees.
6th Apr 2016, 05:46
You might check the exhaust collector underneath the bike... I just took mine out and cut it open, removed the guts, and welded it back... check the Venture tech site for details and pictures. Several of the mounting connections had to be welded as well.
When the guts are loose in the collector, it makes an awful racket... sometimes sounds like the engine's coming apart... then it will stop for a while and then go again... that's cuz things are moving around in there and get stuck once in a while.
The bike back fires now a bit, so I'm re-adjusting the carbs to see if that helps. There's less back pressure, but the bike runs wonderfully...
6th Apr 2016, 05:51
I had the same problem... and others...
Go to the venturers.org web site and look at the tech section for first gen Ventures.
There's a fix there that involves taking out the control panel for the device and soldering a couple points... I also went through all my electrical connections and cleaned and greased them with electronic grease.... but the primary fix is hitting those soldered connection points, right behind the primary plug in to reset the solder ... you may have to add a bit more solder.
These points loosen up and you don't get a good contact.
After following the instructions, my system is back working perfectly normal... yeah!
22nd Jul 2016, 03:20
I have a 89 Venture and it runs great to 4,000 RPM, then it's like it hits a wall, no power, and won't rev any higher. I need help if you have any advice.
24th Jul 2016, 15:49
I'm not sure of your problem, but I ride a 93 VR, I live in the southern part of the U.S. with temps reaching 100 in the summer. When I've been out on a long ride, the temp reading never goes above ⅓ of the scale. Only when I'm in stop and go traffic will it climb to ½ the scale. You may have a thermostat problem or a worn water pump.
28th Jul 2016, 02:43
I have an 87 1300. I love it. I've had 3 Goldwings; got this Venture while one was down. I love it. To sit in the bike instead of on it, the ride is the same, but the anti dip feature is excellent.
Just got back from a long ride, but now my volts aren't staying up when I'm at a stand. Still hope it's the battery. It still fires up and there is a little stall when it starts now. Also I detected a miss now when riding all of a sudden. Thought it was bad gas, but like I said, I went for a long ride, put in premium and a drop of Sea Foam, no change... anybody else experience this? Maybe I just need a tune up?
5th Jun 2017, 04:08
I just purchased a 93 VR and did the fork seals, but the air doesn't work, it says it's pumping. Any help would be appreciated, I like the bike. Thanks.
5th Jun 2017, 21:57
Have either of you two figured out a resolution for the air ride leak? I've been told to clean dust covers and main seals, and this usually solves the problem. Attempting later this afternoon, so hopefully I'll have some success, but any other advice would be welcomed.
24th May 2019, 11:21
I have lived all things with wheels and engines that are designed to be really enjoyed while being operated. To those that believe motorcycles are not toys, please contrast the joy of operating something like a motorcycle for 20 to 30 hours a week on the open road, to the joy of operating a rototiller or walk-behind mower for the same number of hours per week.
That being said, given your description of the problem, there is a strong possibility the previous owner may have made bad decisions in changing the steering geometry, such as changing the fork tubes out for longer or shorter tubes hoping to "go for a certain look", without knowledge of rake angle *and* what increasing or decreasing trail will do to handling. By making uninformed choices that increase trail wet to muck, you create a situation where the bike does *not* want to turn. The faster you go, the more the bike will fight the rider by trying to go straight instead of turning. It'll go straight for 1,000 miles with *no rider.*
A bike with zero or near zero inches of trail gets more responsive, but also requires a steering damper or it will get wild on you, as described.
Search for the terms "motorcycle rake angle and trail distance and before long you'll find some information that will help you further understand how, for example, trying to lower a bike for a shorter rider, or just for "a certain look" by just installing shorter fork tubes without considering the trail geometry can cause "negative trail," which can make a motorcycle completely unsafe to ride, because it will throw the rider right off.
Cruisers and touring bikes have more trail and rake angle than go-fast, turn fast, sticky tire lightweight track bikes. Drag bikes often have steep rake angles and a lot of trail, because turning fast is not a good idea at a drag strip. The dragster geometry is not so great on twisting roads and hair-pin turns at high speeds, however. Negative trail is never safe on the road or any track under any circumstance. Grossly excessive trail can actually make it impossible to turn at even at moderate speeds. In that case, you'd have to be King Kong to made a turn, and even then you'd bend the handlebars if you tried to force it to turn at high speeds.
I hope that explanation is not "about as clear as mud." Once you "get it" or "the concept clicks" (pictures of "how rake angle and trail distance are measured are solid gold. Search those terms and click on "images"), you should quickly understand given my description.