25th Mar 2010, 18:40

I just wanted to thank the previous poster for linking the guide. I have a CH-80 from about 1988 that is going to take some serious effort to get going again. I am searching for all manuals + websites that will help.

24th Jun 2010, 11:37

My 2006 Elite is for sale (New Rochelle, NY - $1,200.00 OBO). 4,300 miles on the OD and I have kept up with the service intervals. I just bought the Yamaha Majesty (400cc) and I can't ride two at once.

Primary reason for the upgrade was for more power while riding through New York City (for work).

With the hard starts I had the carb cleaned and the choke replaced. After year 4 I replaced the battery with one that had a few more AMPs for better cranking - definitely not a cold weather scooter - but who wants to scoot in that kind of cold?

24th Jul 2010, 01:23

Bought a '90 Elite CH80 in S. Fla. with just over 7K miles for $500 last week. Seems to have been garaged and well maintained, as in great condition and tops out at 45 MPH. From what I read here, that's a great price, and I'm fortunate to not have to worry about (starting in) the cold.

While driving today, it just stopped going, even though the engine was still running, and would shut off & start fine; just wouldn't move. Was thinking perhaps I just purchased a money pit.

An auto mechanic sort of off-duty looked at it for me, nice guy, said he use to own one. Said the clutch has to be replaced, and saw the drive belt was shredded to threads. Bikebandit.com quotes the clutch (outer) at $68 and the belt drive at $47.

When talking to a scooter parts person elsewhere, he first wanted the length & width of the belt in milli-meters, and did I want the whole clutch assembly with weights & springs, and all. My objective is to just get her to be able to run good for another few months, 'til I can trade her up for like 150CC so I can go a solid 60 MPH. Don't want to waste one penny needlessly on this pup.

So do I just buy this clutch (outer) and drive belt, and see if that's all she needs? Or, should I get the whole clutch assembly because replacing weights & springs, etc. is going to significantly enhance the performance, and is definitely worth the added expense? Would love to hear especially from those who replaced a clutch / drive belt on this baby, if you think I'm good with just the 2 parts (clutch (outer) & drive belt), or what exactly?

When the mechanic says I need to bring him a new clutch, not clear if it's just the "outer" or the whole assembly. And, is there an OEM vs. aftermarket option for these things?

Mechanic says with a new clutch and belt he can install, and get her going, within 1 hour. If so, and he does this under the table for me, what do you think I should righteously pay/tip the guy for his service?

Thanks in advance if you can help/enlighten me.

21st Aug 2010, 18:35

Just picked up a 1987 CH80 Elite, and having a problem getting it to kick over. It cranks, but doesn't start. Any ideas?

23rd Aug 2010, 15:36

To the 07/24/10 question: Yes, I would get it fixed up, but I would make sure that he is fully qualified to do so. You paid $500 for the scooter; you and I both know you got a great deal, and you could sell it easily with the money you put into it. Be sure to look at the rollers too.

To the 08/21/10 question: Most likely, the carb is gummed up. You will need to clean the floats, needles, and the tiny passages to get it to run. You might try starting fluid, but it will still need a thorough carb cleaning. Further, I would change ALL the fluids before running it (oil, gas). Be sure to look for other storage wear, like dryrot on tires, loose or chewed on cables, etc.


4th Sep 2010, 22:17

I just picked up my CH250 from a replacement clutch/belt install. This was a "surprise" 25 year b-day present from my parents, and I am thrilled to have my scooter back. I wish I could've been involved in the repair.

2.86 + 0.95= 3.81 hours of labor to replace the clutch alone?

Can this be fair? Any comments would be MOST appreciated, I'd love to help my parents save a few bucks. Thanks.

27th Aug 2011, 00:25

I know it's an old post, but I thought I'd comment for the sake of others who might run across this question. There is a little black gadget on the inboard side of the carb called a "by-starter." It has two wires coming off of it, and this is essentially an electric choke. It has a needle which chokes the carb when cold, and changes position and retracts as it warms up. It's an odd device in that it actually has wax inside which expands and retracts with an internal heater is off or on. I had a new Elite 80, and it was always a pain to start. I was told by a mechanic that this is an issue with Elite 80s. I had a warranty, but never bothered taking it in for the cold start problem. With mine, I experimented and found that if you gave it just a quarter turn of throttle and no more while starting, it would catch, and if the throttle was gently worked, it would stay running if you let it warm up for a minute or so. There is a lot of info on how to test this part if you search "Honda scooter by-starter." You can buy one for about 70 dollars if yours is bad. I'm not saying this is the original poster's problem, but it's a place to look, and it doesn't require removing or opening the carb.

30th Aug 2011, 05:25

Key copies: Any key shop should be able to copy it. If you have a lost key, the dealer can cut you one for less than $20 with the key code. If you don't have the code, DO NOT go to a locksmith!

Here's what to do: Take off the left-side panel with the lock cylinder you use to open the saddle. Pull the clip on the lock cylinder, and it will fall out. There is a long number on the side of the cylinder. The last three characters are all you need. It should be a letter and 2 numbers, like : "A35." If the dealer tells you he can't do it, call another dealer.

A locksmith told me that I would have to remove the ignition switch to get the complete code with enough cuts to work the ignition. Not true! All three locks have the exact same code, and the only characters that matter are the last three. If you're lucky enough to have left the front storage compartment open, use that lock cylinder, since it is even easier to remove than the side panel, which isn't hard. Take the cylinder with you and test it, because some of the Honda counter guys aren't good at clipping the keys. It took my guy three tries to get it right. Examine the cuts to make sure they are uniform on both sides, and that the key works no matter which side it's inserted into the lock. Write the code on the title, so you won't have to do it again if you lose the new keys.

I took the ignition switch out based on bad advice from a locksmith. It's a pain, because you have to remove about 12 screws and the front door to get to it. By the way, the screws are hidden under the weather stripping on the front door. If you need to exchange the ignition cylinder for any reason, peel the stripping up.