I have 03 V-Star Classic. It's an awesome bike, I bought it with 1500 km. And started putting $$$ into it.
Vance and Hines slasher 2 pipes, K&N filter, AIS system removed, stage one jet kit is a must. And cut away some of the air box for more air..
I run 20/ 50 Amsoil, Amsoil in the rear end, as well as Amsoil wheel bearing grease. Crash bars, mustang seat with backrest, floorboards all around, plasma headlight. Also added a progressive spring, that makes a huge difference to the ride with 2 up.
I have a slight tick at idle, hardly noticeable. I get 50 to 55 miles to cdn gallon riding 2 up cruising at 120 to 130kmh. I've put her to the test up hills, corners, wherever it doesn't matter, she always comes up a winner.
Oh yeah, Metzeler 880 tires speak for themselves, truly awesome... the power surprises most other larger bikes... Ride on brother's gradie55.
I have a 2004 Yamaha V Star Classic 1100... Did you know the drive shaft has a polished like cover (cylinder like) over it? It's for cosmetic purposes I think.
Anyway my cover came loose the other day. I can slide the cover back and forth and turn it. I'm thinking about putting the drive shaft back on naked (no cover). I have the oil seal, waiting on the o-ring to get here.
I hear this is a common problem. The little spring in the seal has worn through, and is slightly wrapped around the rear of my shaft. All of this is between the rear of the drive shaft and the final drive.
Recently purchased an 07 V Star Custom... Sweet bike, but I'm having some problems with rear cylinder. Doesn't seem to be hitting all the time. Especially when cold. I can put my hand over the exhaust and the front is like a metronome, the back cylinder seems to be missing about every other to every 3rd revolution. Doesn't do it when you hit the throttle, but does at idle. Is this just a V twin normal, or do I have a sticking valve? Also backfires from that cylinder as well.. Fouled plug maybe? Any ideas?
I have a 06 V Star with 61,000 miles on it. I bought the bike new and have run Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil since day one. I change the oil 2,500-3,000 miles. I adjust my own valves, and change my own oil. I added a remote oil filter after it took me 2 hours the first time to change oil.
I replaced the clutch plates at 35,000 miles from slipping.
I learned early that if you overfill the oil even a little bit, that the engine will spit it out thru the air filter.
I change the spark plugs every 12,000 miles and sync the carbs every 12,000 miles. This will help prevent engine kickback and destroy the starter.
Hope this provides some info on this type of bike... BTW I am 60 years old and ride the bike daily to work and back at around 100 miles.
I have a 2003 Classic with 30,000 km. Had a carb job done and the bike has more than enough power, goes at 140km (85) all day without any annoying vibrations. Even at faster speed, the bike is good. I think good tires are the answer, as cheap tire do create some unwanted vibrations.
The only problem I see is a small oil leak on the rear drive hub. Seen other bikes with a similar problem and think it could be "normal". Love the bike, and wonder why you need a bigger bike, as you can only go so fast on public roads. Keeper.
I purchased a V-STAR 1100 2004 model Feb. 2010. It had 12,800 miles on it. It is now April of 2011 and I have 21,300 on it.
I really like the bike, and yes I hunt for 6th gear, but it has plenty of power. I did develop a miss, but a K&N filter tune up and valve adjustment took care of that. I change my own oil (not a problem) every 2500 or 3000 miles, and have recently put a front tire on, and now need to put my second back tire on.
Six of us went on a 1400 mile three day ride last spring with the other kind of popular brand, and guess which one had no problems, you are right, mine.
I used to ride a lot of dirt bikes and have not rode on the street that much, but I am enjoying this. I am going to do something about that seat, but it's not too bad. Great machine!
Good or bad deal; 2001 V Star 1100, 18,000 miles. Carbs cleaned already, nice looking bike. $3600. Someone offer some advice, thanks.
2004 classic, just bought at 7000 miles, tends to idle high, may be carbs, any suggestions before taking the carbs apart?
Have you had the valves adjusted lately? It could also be a manifold leak. To check that, take a length of garden hose, and listen to it with the hose.
Do you have any extra accessories hooked up to the bike? If you do, disconnect and see if that helps you.
Have you had the valves adjusted? Could be some carbon stuck on the valve. Do you have after market pipes on it, and is it jetted properly? Try putting some Seafoam into the crankcase oil. Seafoam comes in a 1L can, and you can also put it into the fuel tank. This stuff takes the moisture out of the fuel, and works awesome; it is like a fuel injector cleaner for carburated bikes.
You can get over 200,000 miles if you stay current with oil changes, and always grease the drive shaft during every rear tire change.
Hi, as far as the popping goes, does the bike have the stock pipes? If not, was it re-jetted properly? Ride it and decelerate; when it starts to pop, give it a tiny bit of choke; I bet the popping goes away. If it does, then it might need to be re-jetted.
I have a 2001 Yamaha V-Star Classic that I bought from my brother-in-law (BNL).
First, let me say this is only my second bike. I started riding for the first time ever in October 2010 on a Suzuki Marauder; it was also a great bike, that I handed over to my wife, because it was a little too small for me (6 foot 240 lbs). They told me afterwards that I looked like I was riding a mini-bike.
The day after I bought the 2001 Yamaha V-Star Classic, the one way bearing went out. Luckily my other BNL is a mechanic, and he fixed it for me for just the cost of the parts, which myself and the previous owner split the cost of.
The bike had a total of 12,900 miles on it. I have since figured out that you need to keep the ignition switch held for a couple of extra seconds. The bike had sat out in the rain and weather for about a year before I bought it, so I expected some problems. I had my mechanic BNL fix an over revving problem in gear after the throttle started sticking when the clutch was pulled. In the process, we also changed spark plugs, oil, but not the oil filter yet, and breather filter.
While changing the plugs we noticed oil in the breather box, under the tank. Figured it was from blow-by caused from the over revving? So now the only quirk that the bike has is the oil light keeps coming on, the oil level is correct, so I am not sure what is causing this, however with some experimentation on the road, I know that it is definitely while the engine is cool, usually within the first 15 miles, and that I can usually get the light to go out by a quick double tap on my front brake (don't recommend in heavy traffic though). Any input would be welcome.